With the economy not looking like it is going to come back anytime soon, Nancy and I have decided that we are
going to stay here for a while. There is no reason to sell our lake house at a low price. We are kind of trapped here
like millions of other American families, but this is a great place to be trapped. I decided to make a workshop. It will
be 10' by 16' and the design is similar to several other sheds I have built. This will probably be my last "big wood"
project for a while and I had forgotten how much fun it is. I still get very winded and am lethargic from my prostate
seeding and have delayed the start of it. I now work a while and rest a while, but seem to be making good progress.
It has been too cold to work many days this month.
going to stay here for a while. There is no reason to sell our lake house at a low price. We are kind of trapped here
like millions of other American families, but this is a great place to be trapped. I decided to make a workshop. It will
be 10' by 16' and the design is similar to several other sheds I have built. This will probably be my last "big wood"
project for a while and I had forgotten how much fun it is. I still get very winded and am lethargic from my prostate
seeding and have delayed the start of it. I now work a while and rest a while, but seem to be making good progress.
It has been too cold to work many days this month.
I used a total of 12 18" flat blocks with 2 8" by 16" on each one to give a little height. I also rested the floor frames on 16 " 4 by 4's that I beveled in case I
ever need to move the shed. I leveled the whole flooring frame with some treated shims I made. The base is all treated, but will be untreated above.
ever need to move the shed. I leveled the whole flooring frame with some treated shims I made. The base is all treated, but will be untreated above.
I bought a Kreg Joint pocket hole jig and it worked out great for attaching the joist to the 4 by 4's
Finishing the layout
I believe in putting a lot of extra wood into a project when it is mine.
This shed will have at least 3 times as much wood in it as a bought
shed. I put in the 2 by 6 cross members for stability.
This shed will have at least 3 times as much wood in it as a bought
shed. I put in the 2 by 6 cross members for stability.
Through for today. Tomorrow the 3/4" plywood for the floor.
Everywhere a 2 by 6 member crosses a 4 by 4, i attached them together
using a 3" wood screw. (in excess of 50 screws.) This will provide stability
in case I ever need to move the shed. It will move as a unit on the 4 by 4
sleds.
using a 3" wood screw. (in excess of 50 screws.) This will provide stability
in case I ever need to move the shed. It will move as a unit on the 4 by 4
sleds.
I can jump on it and slam against it without moving it a mm. Very solid
and the plywood will make it even more solid. Bought sheds have no
bracing and use 2" by 4" on 24" centers where we used 2" by 6" on 16"
centers with 2" by 6" cross bracing and screwed down at every member
crossing. Much stronger, but more expensive.
and the plywood will make it even more solid. Bought sheds have no
bracing and use 2" by 4" on 24" centers where we used 2" by 6" on 16"
centers with 2" by 6" cross bracing and screwed down at every member
crossing. Much stronger, but more expensive.
There is a lot of wood in this floor bracing. It is all tied down and
together with screws.
together with screws.
My son-in-law Darryl came up to help me bring home the 3/4 " plywood for the flooring. We got it down very securely and it is ready for the walls to be
made and put up.I will frame the walls on the flooring, store them, and erect all on the same day. I will put the T-111 after the walls.
made and put up.I will frame the walls on the flooring, store them, and erect all on the same day. I will put the T-111 after the walls.
Nancy and Mary Lynn. Nancy goes in for her thyroid surgery tomorrow.
I will be building the walls in sections so I can put them in place by
myself. I will build 2 10" sections for the ends and 2 8' sections for each
of the 16' sidewalls. The overlaps will have to be taken into account of
course. The walls will also have to allow or the 5 1/2" of the 2 by 6
frames, 3/4" for the flooring, plus 1 1/2" for the bottom plate and 3" for
the doubled top plate. The door on the West end will be 2 2' opposing
opening doors with a removable stud in the center. I will keep this place
except for very wide projects.
myself. I will build 2 10" sections for the ends and 2 8' sections for each
of the 16' sidewalls. The overlaps will have to be taken into account of
course. The walls will also have to allow or the 5 1/2" of the 2 by 6
frames, 3/4" for the flooring, plus 1 1/2" for the bottom plate and 3" for
the doubled top plate. The door on the West end will be 2 2' opposing
opening doors with a removable stud in the center. I will keep this place
except for very wide projects.
I have built the back (West) and one of the 8' sections of the South Wall.
After getting all of the walls completed, I will screw them to the flooring
and to each other. The T1-11 will then firm up the structure.
After getting all of the walls completed, I will screw them to the flooring
and to each other. The T1-11 will then firm up the structure.
By this photo, I have finished all 6 sides (almost) and am nearly ready to
start erecting the sides. They will be screwed down initially with regular 3
1/4" wood screws and I will probably come back with some larger hex
headed 4 1/2" lag screws when I am finished.
start erecting the sides. They will be screwed down initially with regular 3
1/4" wood screws and I will probably come back with some larger hex
headed 4 1/2" lag screws when I am finished.
The opening for the door which will be 2 middle opening 2 " doors with a
removable stud in the center. The stud will always be in place, but easily
removable for removing a large project,. A doubled 2 by 6 is the header.
I also added 1/2 inch plywood to make it 3 1/2 ". I will have to finish the
bracing tomorrow. It has been unseasonable cold and windy. This has
been a very fun project.
removable stud in the center. The stud will always be in place, but easily
removable for removing a large project,. A doubled 2 by 6 is the header.
I also added 1/2 inch plywood to make it 3 1/2 ". I will have to finish the
bracing tomorrow. It has been unseasonable cold and windy. This has
been a very fun project.
I put up 5 of 6 of the wall sections today. This is defiantly a 2 man job, but
I managed to get the back wall up by leaning it against the old shed and
then tied the other sections to a fixed section one at a time. I predrilled
the anchor holes and started the 3 1/4 screws. I will add lag bolts at some
point soon. I was unable to lift the West section with the door as it was
too heavy and I was unable to pick it up by myself. The wall had fallen
and couldn't get up.
I managed to get the back wall up by leaning it against the old shed and
then tied the other sections to a fixed section one at a time. I predrilled
the anchor holes and started the 3 1/4 screws. I will add lag bolts at some
point soon. I was unable to lift the West section with the door as it was
too heavy and I was unable to pick it up by myself. The wall had fallen
and couldn't get up.
Fitting the last 8' section. I am wearing suspenders now to correct my
plumbers butt. I wish Mother could see. One of the last things she said to
me was, "Pull them Up"
plumbers butt. I wish Mother could see. One of the last things she said to
me was, "Pull them Up"
I put up a brace to tie things down for the night.
I got Jim to help me lift the last wall into place. The center stud will be
replaced with a removable one.
replaced with a removable one.
I used 54 hold downs (aka hurricane straps) which is about 3 times
as many as required. I also used 10 nails per strap. We had always
heard that in the center of the state, we would never get hurricane
winds. 2004 disproved that theory. I will also use many on the roof
wall junction as well as 8 anchors to hold the shed down to the
ground. If this shed ever blows away, it will go as a unit. I told Nancy
that an archaeologist will be wondering why we built this thing so
sturdy.
as many as required. I also used 10 nails per strap. We had always
heard that in the center of the state, we would never get hurricane
winds. 2004 disproved that theory. I will also use many on the roof
wall junction as well as 8 anchors to hold the shed down to the
ground. If this shed ever blows away, it will go as a unit. I told Nancy
that an archaeologist will be wondering why we built this thing so
sturdy.
Nancy admiring the work. Our son-in-law is coming up Sunday to
help us put on the T1-11 siding.
help us put on the T1-11 siding.
A view out of what will be a window.
A nice shot of the shed, lake and dock.
The following shots show some of the construction details. I tried to make it as sturdy and overbuilt as possible.
Lots of hurricane tie downs
I used a lot of overlapping on joints which makes for more strength.
Gravity is working in your favor.
Gravity is working in your favor.
This is in the center of the back wall. I might add and additional 2 by
4 as the weight of the roof will be supported here.
4 as the weight of the roof will be supported here.
The header for the door opening. It is supported directly on a stud
as well as from the sides. Using gravity again.
as well as from the sides. Using gravity again.
The 4 corners are supported by stacked 2 by 4 studs . The top plate
is doubled and overlapped.
is doubled and overlapped.
Another corner
Admiring my work. The sheathing goes on tomorrow and it will look more
like a real shed.
like a real shed.
Cross bracing throughout every stud.